Bottom line: A pretty good buy. If I had more money, I would have bought silicone rubber body mounts. 2011 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab (6.7L Diesel)/ 277K miles The kit came with body mounts/cab bushings and the bolts needed to fit different...
Bottom line: A pretty good buy. If I had more money, I would have bought silicone rubber body mounts.
2011 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab (6.7L Diesel)/ 277K miles
The kit came with body mounts/cab bushings and the bolts needed to fit different trucks. The bolts were all grade 8, but none of them fit my truck, so I had to reuse the hardware from the factory. On a high-note, the factory hardware was grade 10. The instructions were for a different truck, and could be confusing to someone inexperienced.
After installing these, I can immediately feel a difference in the ride. Its much better than on my rotted out body mounts/cab bushings. But its also different. Its almost like I can feel all the little bumps in the road, but they aren''t jarring. Further research confirms that the original foam-rubber mounts (which deteriorate quickly) definitely produce a different ride quality. Note: I haven''t tried them with the truck under a load, but I am guessing it would be better.
15MM socket and ratchet (recommend 1/2 in drive)
block of wood
Blue Loctite threadlocker
PBlaster Rust release penetrating spray
Installation on a :
1. Don''t use air tools. The captured nuts are not accessible without a lot of effort, and air tools will spin the nut out of the cage or bend the cage, making this a VERY hard repair.
2. There a 8 body mounts/cab bushings, 4 on either side of the truck. They are all easily accessible from the bottom of the truck. They are all the same, except the third mount, counting from the front of the truck. That 3rd mount has a shorter bolt. The mounts come in 2 parts: a top and a bottom.
3. The bolts were installed from the factory with loctite threadlocker. You will suffer a lot if you don''t heat up the bolt before you try to turn it. I used a normal butane torch from a big box, and held the flame on the bolt for about 90sec. You may have to re-heat the bolt as you are unscrewing it, as there are a lot of threads.
4. Get under the truck and heat the bolt. Use the breaker bar and 15MM socket to free up the bolt and then unscrew it. DON''T BREAK YOUR BOLTS OR STRIP THE HEADS. Note that the replacement bolts from Daystar did NOT fit my truck. So I reused the originals. Repeat for all 8 bolts. As you are taking bolts out, keep track of which ones are the shorter bolts (3rd mount). There are a LOT of threads. I was really sore after this because the threadlocker makes it slow going, but you do NOT want to damage the cage around the bolts by using air/impact tools. The cussing increased the further along I went.
5. The bottom part of the bushing will come free. If its anything like mine, it might already be gone, or could just crumble in your hands. You will likely need to use the pry-bar to pry the top and bottom apart. I had a LOT of trouble with the front two mounts, which had rusted together. PB Blaster helped. So did copious shouting.
6. After taking the bottoms out, jack up ONE SIDE of the cab (at a time) with the block of wood. Be careful to lift in a well supported position. Lift slowly and check back frequently so you only lift as far as you need to get the top part of the mount/bushing out. You don''t want to pull any bundles of wire or AC lines, so take it slow and easy.
7. Install the top mounts bushings. Repeat for all 8 bushings.
8. Once the truck is sitting on the top mounts/bushings, you should be able to install the bottom mounts/bushings and the bolts. DON''T forget to put Blue Loctite threadlocker on the bolts as you are reinstalling them.
9. The directions say to torque to 50lbs. The factory spec is 76lbs. However, these mounts are NOT made of the same material as factory, so follow the Daystar guidance and torque to 50lbs with the torque wrench.
10. Test drive. Re-torque as needed after 500miles.
11. Enjoy an adult beverage of your choice.